a
So I can surf after all, kindof. At least I can swim, avoid getting smashed into the rocks, and stay clear of major danger while trying to surf. After about 8 days of struggling to keep up with the real surfers I managed to drop into a wave and ride it out, now I know why people turn into surf bums. My goal is to try and enjoy surfing make it part of my life without becoming a total bum. I´m not sure if that is possilbe from the surfers that I am familiar with.
Nicaragua was an amazing place and spending it with good people from home made it a joyful experience. Not exactly authentic but great none the less. I managed to actually catch waves while out at a point break all by myself, the point break was a little more forgiving than the beach break that the boys wanted to surf, so they dropped me off, the boat that is, and left me to the sharks. I guess there is no better way to learn, sink or swim, all or nothing, good idea in theory. I was not proven wrong and had a great time all alone. Thanks buddies.
No comments:
Post a Comment